I cannot believe that it is almost two weeks since the end of our village stay. It was a great and humbling experience. I became a member of a new family who were so welcoming. My family of five were part of a large extended family in the village consisting of 5 brothers plus their families. As the honoured guest I was given the best room in the house , on the middle floor, up what to us would be ladders but to them are easy staircases. I caused much amusement the first day going down the ladder backwards!! I quickly changed to forwards in order to stop the giggling and turn myself into a real Nepali.
The house was three storey with mud floors throughout, cooking was done over an open fire on the top floor and once I had got over my fear that the house would burn down I found that this was the place to sit in the evening when the cooking was going on. It was warm and you got to learn how to cook dhaal bhaat.
The parents in my family did not speak any English but the children spoke a little so we managed to communicate with a wonderful mix of Nepali and English. I think we all gained from this.
We had a wonderful day getting dirty and making new friends when we spent the day with the local youth group cleaning out the water tanks that served the village. By the time we had walked back to the village everyone knew who had done what and were very appreciative.
The village was on the edge of the Kathmandu valley close to Dhulikiel, Panauti and Banepa. Very rural and with fabulous views of the Himal on every day but one.
Leaving on the last morning was very emotional. It really did feel like leaving good friends. Anil and I had stayed in separate families but they both lay claim to us so my goodbyes began at 8.30 in the morning with me having tea at Anil's home and then being given tika and garlanded. By the time we left at 11.30 I had several tika marks on my forehead ,was beginning to drown in garlands and had bracelets up to my elbows. A wonderful time, the Nepali's opened their homes and shared their culture in a way I will never forget.
We then had the roller coaster of saying goodbye to our Nepali teachers who have guided us so well through the first two months in Nepal. I only wish that their skill and enthusiasm were matched by my ability to speak Nepali.
As if this wasn't enough we were then plunged straight in to our placements. I am now in my second week and I am having to remember all I have been taught about taking things slowly. I am based in a very small NGO which is focused on campaigning for the rights of Dalit people.
The office pace is definitely different and at the moment it is badly affected by the load shedding schedule, I arrived at the office on Monday morning all ready to get going to discover we would not have any electricity until 12 o'clock. Just as in the village the thing that is the most striking is how ready people are to share their stories with you. To be patient when you are struggling to understand not just because of the language but also because there is so much you don't know about the culture and how it affects peoples daily lives especially if you are from a group that has suffered years of discrimination like the Dalits.
I have settled happily in to riding the gold bus to work, crowded, hair raisingly driven but only 9 rupees for a door to door journey and I have yet to hear anyone complaining. Riding backwards sitting on the gear box wasn't my ideal way to start the day but I've lived to tell the tale so the gold bus could be replacing the 38 in my affections.
Namaste
Julie
Monday, January 21, 2008
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